Let me preface this by adding that you should probably call a professional if your first move is to open a can of paint. Please take the time to read this entire page before proceeding.
SUPPORTING MATERIALS:
You can get everything you need from a Sherwin-Williams Retailer near you.
Apply Drywall Primer Paint if Necessary
Thinner for Paint, if Necessary
Top-Notch Priming in a Spray Can Brush Size: 2 to 4 Inches
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
A combination utility knife that can cut drywall at either a five or 6-inch depth
Folding Knife
Stepladder, 5′ or 6′ in height
Drywall Paper, 100-120 Grit Tools: Sandpaper, pole sander, and sand
Optional Use of 80-Grit Sandpaper
Sliders for Furniture
Paint Sprayer/Caulking Gun Sealant Drop Cloths or Strong Plastic Electric Hand Drill Rope and Caulk Rolls of Plastic or Multipurpose Crafting Paper
Roller Cover and Handle Measure 9 Inches
Grid and rolling pan or 5-gallon bucket
A 2-by-4-foot rolling pole (in a pinch, a broom will do)
Compound for Joining Walls (Suggested Brand: Sheetrock 20-Minute Lightweight Setting Joint Compound)
Scotch Blue Painter’s Tape, 1/2-Inch (No. 2090)
Masking tape, 1-1/2 inches wide, Scotch #2020
PREPARATION:
Before painting begins, as much furniture as possible should be moved out of the room using furniture sliders. A flat head screwdriver is required to remove all switch plates. Take down any drapes or blinds that could get in the way of the paint job. Wrap some plastic or paper around the remaining fixtures and tape them shut. If you have enough room to maneuver the brush, removing the brackets is unnecessary.
In my experience, small brackets like those used for curtain rods are typically fastened to the drywall or plaster. In most cases, the hole becomes unusable after the screw is removed. Wrap a piece of tape around the bracket if you don’t plan to repair the holes and replace them.
Taping – Tape the baseboards to the walls. Ensure the tape is flush with the wall, baseboard, or shoe molding before painting anything that will come into contact with the floor. To permanently attach the tape to the bottom, run your finger down it while pushing firmly on the painted side. Ripped the tap with about 4 inches of room to spare at each corner. Remove excess with a utility knife. If you have carpeting, you should overlap the tape onto the baseboard or wall by about a quarter inch and tuck it between the carpet and the wall. The paint will not leak onto the carpet. Tape should be used to encircle any leftover brackets. Tape the outside edges of the glass before painting the window sash. To prevent paint from leaking behind the tape, windows must be entirely humidity-free. Remove the tape from the corners with a utility knife. Keep all tape firmly pressed down to seal off any potential paint leaks. Scotch blue painter’s tape (#2090) is what you want to use for sticking things to wood, glass, and drywall. Scotch masking tape (#2020) is an excellent choice for taping carpets because of its adaptability. Tape should not be used if it is older than 24 hours and should not be left in place for longer than 48 hours unless you intend to use a torch to remove it. The second option is not one I endorse.
Before beginning, ensure all flooring is covered entirely by laying down thick drop cloths or plastic. Drop materials or plastic should be used to protect all furnishings.
Use the pointed end of the 5 in 1 to dig out tiny cracks for repairing nail pops, holes, and attempts. Use a 5 in 1 to remove the nail pop and any loose drywall or joint compound. Get rid of the nail or screw that’s making the noise. Put a new screw in with a power drill about two inches away from the original hole, making sure to drill into a stud or joist. Make sure the screw head is countersunk. Fill all nail pops, cracks, and holes with a six-inch mud knife and joint compound. Remove all debris blocking access to save yourself hours of sanding. Finger in just enough joint compound to fill a crack where a drywall knife could be difficult to reach. It may be challenging to sand, so make sure it’s smooth. Once the joint compound has dried thoroughly, smooth it up by hand. A second layer of a joint compound may be necessary for filling in more significant gaps and cracks. The rule of thumb is that if flaws can be felt when passing a hand over the finished product, they will be visible to the naked eye. A joint compound and a few sandpaper strokes will work if you do the job well. Fill holes or voids in the wood with caulk and wipe it smooth.
Sand all walls and ceilings using 120-grit drywall sandpaper using a pole sander or by hand to get rid of any blemishes. All woodwork should be sanded by hand. Sand the area down with 80-grit paper if it won’t budge.
Priming: Determine if you need to apply a primer coat to the entire room or if spot priming will be enough. There are two scenarios in which I think it would be a good idea to prime the whole room. A. I suggest applying an excellent oil base primer like “Kilz” if the room has been smoked for an extended period. When working with oil-based paint, always use a respirator. For optimal ventilation, throw open all windows. B. An excellent latex primer is all needed if you paint after removing wallpaper. Use a spray primer like “Pro-Block” or “Kilz” to cover any holes patched with drywall compound if neither of these options applies. Dry completely. Depending on the humidity, the spray primer dries in minutes. If you plan on painting with oil-based paint, I suggest picking up a disposable brush. It’s not worth the time and money to buy paint thinner and clean up afterward.
Different painters have different opinions on how the woodwork should be painted. Except for the baseboards, I always paint the woodwork before I do the walls. You should follow my lead, please. Instead of painting along the edge of the wall once it is finished, it is much simpler to tape off the edge of the window or door casing or freehand brush up to that edge. This produces better outcomes with significantly less effort.
WALLS & CEILINGS – Start with the walls if you’re nervous about brushing freehand. Adequate drying time must be allowed after painting walls. Allow 24 hours for optimal drying. Apply tape horizontally from the top of the wall to the ceiling, pressing hard on the tape’s top edge. Keep it taut as you travel around the room by running it into the corners. At this point, you can start painting the ceilings. Do not remove the tape until the paint has dried thoroughly. Using video in this manner, you will achieve the straightest ceiling line imaginable. If you don’t want to rip the color off the wall when removing the tape, pull it down on it instead of out.
PAINTING
To remove stray lint before using your roller, wrap the entire cover in tape first. Take the roller cover from its packaging and place it in a 5-gallon bucket or paint tray. (Remove any trash in the bucket/paint tray first). Break open a gallon of paint and pour it straight onto the roller cover, saving the remaining quart to use with a paintbrush. The roller cover must be soaked well. Cover the bucket and drink it while cutting with the brush. Never put too much in a rolling pan. The mating of the roller is avoided in this way.
How to Use a Brush The correct way to handle a brush is in the same manner as a pencil. In this manner, you’ll have complete command over the paintbrush. Put about an inch of your brush into the paint. Slap the inside of the can a few times to prevent the dye from dripping off your bush. The meeting should NOT be scraped against the edge of the paint can. Use liberal 6-8 inch strokes to cover the surface in paint. Drag the brush from the leading edge back into the color when finishing a stroke. A uniform coat of paint will result from doing this. If you want perfectly even results while painting trim, do one final stroke from end to end after you’ve painted an entire horizontal or vertical piece of casing.
To secure the roller cover on the roller handle, slip the cover on a couple of inches and then pole-prop it up on the end. Roll the body onto the roller by slamming the arm against the handle. Join the pole to the handle so it may be rolled.
Coating the Roller Cover with Paint –
To avoid the pan rolling back out of the paint, move the handle down the ramp several times before scooping it up. Roll the roller’s handle down the ramp to get rid of paint overflow.
Hook the grid of the 5-gallon bucket onto the rim of the bucket. Repeatedly touching the paint with the roller cover requires rolling the handle down the grid. Keep only the roller head submerged in the color. Next, frequently move the handle down the grid to scrape off any excess paint.
Start with the roller a foot away from the top when rolling a wall. Move the roller in a “W” pattern, first away from the corner and then back into it, without lifting it off the floor. Depending on the ceiling’s height and the paint, you’ll be painting a space around 2 feet wide at a time. As often as required. Roll access paint off on a more prominent wall before tackling minor spots like above doors and windows. Keep the roller from touching the wall beside it. Inch close to the corner and stop. The roller needs only a light touch to remain in place on the wall. You shouldn’t put too much pressure on the roller. You shouldn’t waste paint trying to get every drop out of the can. Maintain a moist roller. Matted roller covers and lines along their edges result from not following these guidelines. If paint builds up on the roller handle arm, wipe it off with a rag. The roller usually leaks in this direction.
Paint half of the ceiling at a time, following the exact rolling directions for the walls. Keep rolling horizontally toward the brightest area. The best results can be achieved by disguising flashing by doing so.
SPRING CLEANING
All equipment used with latex paint should be washed in warm, soapy water. Quality brushes cannot be cleaned in hot water. A good meeting can endure for years if you keep it clean. Oil-based paint requires paint thinner for cleanup.
If you follow these steps carefully, you’ll get considerably better results.
TMProfessionalPainting.com
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